Yerba Buena and Sousilito

By Larry Clinton, Sausalito Historical Society

In 1847, Dr. E.B. Jones, editor of the California Star, the first newspaper in Yerba Buena, published a description of the budding settlement and its cross-bay neighbor, which he spelled Sousilito.

Dr. Jones began by railing against previous descriptions written by visiting journalists:

“As we have never seen in any of the numerous journals published by travellers, a correct description of this part of California, we design from time to time, to give to our readers abroad, all the information that we may be enabled to procure in relation to it.”

After sarcastically dissecting a few of those early accounts, Jones offered his own description, excerpted and lightly edited below:

To supply the deficiency in all these works, (some of which have obtained an extensive circulation,) so far as it relates to this part of California, we have obtained from the most authentic sources the description of the town and bay, which follows:

Yerba Buena, the name of our town which means GOOD HERB, is situated on the south west side of the principle arm of San Francisco bay, about five miles from the ocean, on a narrow neck of land varying from four to ten miles in width. The narrowest place being sixteen miles south west of the town. It is in latitude 37° 45 north. This narrow slip of land is about sixty miles in length, extending from the point formed by the bay and the ocean, to the valley of San Jose. The site of the town is handsome and commanding—being an inclined plain of about a mile in extent from the water's edge to the hills in the rear. Two points of land—one on each side, extending into the bay form a crescent or small bay in the shape of a crescent in front, which bears the name of the town. These points afford a fine view of the surrounding country, the snow capped mountains in the distance, the green valleys beneath them, the beautiful, smooth and unruffled bay in front and on either side, at once burst upon the eye. There is in front of the town a small Island, rising high above surface of the bay, about two miles long, and one wide, which is covered the greater part of the year with the exuberant herbage of untrodden freshness. This little Island is about three miles from the shore. Between it and the town is the principal anchorage. Here the vessels of all nations rest in safety and peace, and their flags are displayed by the aromatic breeze. Two hundred yards from the shore, there is twenty four feet water, and a short distance beyond that, as many fathoms. The beach immediately in front of the now business part of the town, is shelving; but it will no doubt in a short time be filled up and become the most valuable part of the place.

The climate here is, in the winter, which is the rainy season, damp and chilly. During the balance of the year it is dry, but chilly, in consequence of the continual strong winds from the north and north west. There is but little variation in the atmosphere throughout the year—the thermometer ranging from fifty five to seventy degrees Fahrenheit. Yerba Buena is one of the most healthy places on the whole coast of the Pacific. Sickness of any kind is rarely known among us. The salubrity of the climate—beauty of the site of the town—its contiguity to the mouth of the bay—the finest harbor on the whole coast in front— the rich and beautiful country around it, all conspire to render it one of the best commercial points in the world. The town is new, having been laid off in 1839 by Capt. John Vioget—and notwithstanding all the troubles in the country has gradually increased in size and importance. It now contains a population of about five hundred permanent citizens. Two years ago there were but about two hundred. Three miles south is the mission Dolores on Mission creek, surrounded by a small valley of rich and beautiful land. The water from this creek can easily be brought by means of aqueducts to any point to supply vessels. For the supply of the citizens the best of well water is obtained in every part of the town, by boring the distance of forty feet.

On the north side of the bay from the straits to Sousilito, is one of the finest districts of country in all upper California. Next to Yerba Buena, Sousilito is the best point on the whole bay for a commercial town. It is seven miles a little east of north from this place on the opposite side of the bay, and has long been a watering point for vessels. An attempt has recently been made to lay off and build up a town at the straits. It will no doubt however, be an entire failure. San Francisco bay being the safest and most commodious harbor on the entire coast of the Pacific, some point on it must be the great mart of the western world. We believe Yerba Buena is the point, commanding as it does now, all the trade of the surrounding country, and there being already a large amount of capital concentrated here. The town of Yerba Buena is called in some of the old maps of the country San Francisco. It is not known by that name here however.

Ironically, on the very day the good doctor’s screed was printed, January 30, 1847, the military commander issued a proclamation changing the name Yerba Buena to San Francisco, following the Mexican–American War.

PHOTO FROM SAUSALITO HISTORICAL SOCIETY

Earliest known photo of Sousilto/Saucelito/Sausalito, c. 1852